I started the day in Aachen, Germany. I hoped to see its famous cathedral and old town, but the inside of the former was closed today due to weddings. Aachen felt like a nice working town, and I always felt safe. Not the most memorable, but it was certainly better than some of the places I have been on the trip. There was also a nice open air market going on this morning.
From Aachen it was off to Cologne, or Koln depending on how you want to spell it. Home to the granddaddy of all German churches, the Cathedral simply amazed me. I knew that it was one of the biggest churches in the world as well as through the roof In its Gothic nature, but there was no way I could have imagined how mammoth the cathedral was next to its surroundings. The cathedral sits in the middle of the city and towers over everything. Upon exiting the train station, all you can see through the glass exit is simply the cathedral. The cathedral has a number of relics, including the bones of the wise men. While 95% of Koln was flattened during WWII, the cathedral took 13 bombs and remained standing--basically all that was left in the city. I toured the inside as well as climbed the nearly 600 steps to the top of one spire...with my pack! It was a great view and a fantastic workout.
I really enjoyed the rest of Koln as well. Back to the beautiful Rhine, pedestrian friendly zones lined the river. There were tourists, but not in overwhelming numbers like a few of the other places. I had lunch in an exceptional beer hall, completely with dozens of working antique gizmos ranging from player pianos to a Disney-like oom-pah-pah tuba and accordion duo. Very cool, and the price was right!
Next was Frankfort. I almost didn't come here, but the hotels were cheap and I figured I needed to try the Apfelwine. Upon arrival, I found the city in absolute chaos due to Occupy protests. Frankfurt is the main banking and business center in Germany as well as the home of the Euro, making it a prime protest target.
I have NEVER seen police protection like what I saw today (and having gone to two Big 10 schools, that is saying something). The streets were lined (literally) with police trucks of all kind, and most of them were full of officers. There must have been hundreds of police vehicles here with thousands of officers. Despite the ranging drunk protesters abounding, I felt completely safe. Not only were there tons of police, but they were well armed and ready to take down anything.
Although my walking tour was a dismal failure due to street closures, I had one of my favorite evenings of the trip here in Frankfurt. I made my way to one of the famous Apfelwein houses for a scrumptious dinner, complete with some of the best apple strudel I have ever had. From there, I had about a 30 minute walk back to my place, and the entire walk was along the river. I strolled along the river as the sun set over the city. Couples of all ages and friends alike lined the pedestrian park that followed the river for its entirety. It was a Central Park type feel, with bikers, joggers, and folks like me just enjoying the evening. Truly romantic and unbelievably serene. The place was alive with friendly locals out to enjoy their night. I never would have had a clue about the chaos in the city center had I not witnessed it earlier. It was the perfect way to end the day.
I am glad to say I have been catching up on some much needed trip planning the past two nights. I have basically been flying by the seat of my pants, but now I have a bit of a plan for the rest of the trip. I think things will definitely be getting more interesting, as I think I have found a few extra things to squeeze in! Short term: Wurzburg, Nuremberg, and the Romantic Road. Long term: you will have to wait and see!
Have a great night!
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