I left Frankfort very early this morning, knowing that my plate was overloaded. The bullet train zipped me to Wurzburg, where my first objective was to catch Mass. This task was a bit more difficult than normal, as the two most prominent churches in town are closed for renovations (the cathedral and Residence Chapel). What I found though was exceptional. I ended up in a newly renovated cathedral style church--which was ENTIRELY white on the inside except for very bright contemporary art. It was incredibly unique, and the organist was one of the best I have ever heard. While not on the most grand instrument, he used each stop to the fullest of their abilities--achieving a level of musicianship rarely heard from the organ bench. The trumpets were expressed like true trumpets, the reeds were sounded like reads; he was magnificent. I would love to give more musical detail, but that would be boring...
From their it was off to the Wurzburg Residence Palace. In essence, it is like a sibling to the more known Versailles, but with much less extensive gardens. However, it is home to Europe's largest fresco as well as a number of FANTASTIC rooms. If you like frescos, this is the place for you. There were multiple ones that were unlike anything I have seen in terms of their detail. The Residence was definitely worth checking out.
Wurzburg had a half and full marathon today, but the city was not overcrowded at all. In fact, it was nice to have the city closed off to cars! I walked around quite a bit before heading off to Nurnberg (Nuremberg).
While I was originally going to skip Nuremberg, my guide book advised it--and I am very glad I went. Famous for its post war trials, the city is basically where the Nazi party grew into the terrifying machine that we all know. We have all seen videos and pictures of Nazi rallies, with fiercely marching soldiers stretching as far as the eye can see--with Hitler standing in the foreground. This is Nuremberg: home to the Nazi Rally Grounds that Hitler had built specifically to house his most massive gatherings. Crowds of 1,000,000 are said to have converged on the city for such events, with Hitler speaking to about 250,000 of the most prominent on Zepplin Field--which is still intact today. Also left is Hitler's Congress Hall (partially finished, modeled after the Colloseum), Grosse Strass (which doubled as a runway for allied airplanes after capture) and a smaller stadium. There were numerous other buildings stretching across this GIGANTIC complex, which included a planned 400,000 seat stadium. There is now top notch museum/"Documentation Center" housed in the 50,000 seat Congress Hall, which gives hours upon hours of well laid out information about what lead to Hitler coming to power and what enabled him throughout. It was really excellent and in English. To make it even more interesting, the whole thing is housed directly in this massive building designed by Hitler and Speer. It was certainly very worthwhile. As someone who would consider themselves a bit of a WWII history nerd, I learned a lot.
Although the Congress Hall and Documentation Center were incredibly well done, I think the memory that will be preeminently etched in my mind is from the visit to Zepplin field. The complex (covering several square miles) is basically all now public recreation areas; with lakes, parks , paths, and the like. Locals were everywhere enjoying the beautiful day... All in this area with such a dark past. Zepplin Field (sight of Hitler's largest and seen around the world rallies) lies mostly intact other than parts blow up by the allies. Covering 12 football fields, the inside houses football fields, baseball field, part of a racetrack, and more. The platform from which Hitler spoke is still there and open to the public (see photo looking out) as well as the surrounding grandstands. I hope the photos will be explanatory from these descriptions.
I left this area pretty torn up emotionally. It is hard to come to grips with knowing that you are standing in the exact place that enabled Hitler and the Nazis to start a war of hate and take the lives of millions of people. Furthermore, seeing the areas built to fan the flames of hate and war juxtapose with modern pedestrians Jair out enjoying the now parks.
Downtrodden and worn out, I toured the very nice old city of Nuremberg. It was delightful, but I still wasn't in the mood to be a tourist. So, I expedited my trip to the most charming of all old German towns, Rothenburg ob der Tauber. From what I saw tonight, it is everything it is cracked up to be. I am here for three nights (Hooray!) while I bike the Romantic Road!
I also had fun with a lost American tourist tonight who was in desperate need of a hotel. With my handy book, basic German, and maps, I was able to get the native of Washington DC a room for 25 Euro! Pretty darn good--and of course it is always fun to talk with folks from back home!
I hear it is hot back in the States! Stay cool!!!
No comments:
Post a Comment