As you can probably tell, I am a pretty intricate planner when it comes to travel. However, since mom and Andrew left, I am only really planning 1-4 days ahead at a time. While traveling down to Slovenia and Croatia, I read in my Rick Steve's travel guide about two "must see" sights: the Mauthhausen Concentration Camp and Melk Abbey. Both are somewhat accessible by train from Vienna. Being a history buff and especially enjoying WWII history, I decided I really wanted to try to squeeze in Mauthhausen, and Melk is practically on the way. Furthermore, if I don't see it now, who knows when I will make it back! So, in keeping with the trip thus far, I decided to cram more in. As you will see, the planning was some of the most elaborate of my trip so far.
I left Vienna yesterday at 6:40 in order to be at Mauthausen when it opened at 9:00. A rarity, there is no public transport from the train station to the camp, so I knew in advance I would have a 10€ taxi each way. The camp is called by many guides "the top concentration camp experience one can have in Western Europe". Some of the reasons for this are many original buildings survive, the original structure of the camp survives (boundaries, towers, fences, etc), the are no replicas or replacement buildings, the original buildings are well preserved and home to detailed exhibits, and perhaps most of all, it is home to the "Stairway of Death"
Mauthhausen was built in 1938 next to the massive quarries that helped built great cities like Vienna and Budapest. During its operation, 200,000 prisoners entered into Mauthhausen and did slave labor at it or one of its satellite camps. Of this number, half died. 50,000 alone died in the 4 months prior to liberation (you can do the math for how many per day, etc). Death was frequently from being worked to death in the quarries, but included every other type of brutal way imaginable. The exhibits also tell stories of medical experiments, gas chambers, and the SS just killing for fun. The Stairway of Death leads from the bottom of the quarry up to the camp gate, and prisoners were forced to carry huge stone blocks up these incredibly strep and uneven stairs...with no shoes, clothes, food, etc. Those who could not carry enough or keep up were killed in the spot, sometimes by the SS making them jump off the quarry cliff.
As you would expect, I left with an upset stomach and deeply moved. When my allotted time was up, I got a taxi and made it to my train just in time. From there it was to the Melk Abbey.
Prior to a few days ago, I had never heard of the Melk Abbey. However, my guidebook called it "one of Europe's greatest sights", so I thought I would check it out. As it turns out, I was tremendous impressed. It was definitely worth a visit! Upon pulling into the Melk train station, in the distance you see the MASSIVE abbey towering over the town and the Danube River. What a sight this was. The abbey just underwent an extensive renovation and facelift finance by the sale of their Gutenberg Bible to Yale in 1996. The entire complex is in beautiful condition and attracting a good number of tourists. It has been around for centuries and centuries with its pastel yellow walls. Highlights we're the unbelievable medieval library (think like Beauty and the Beast), intricate frescos, Danube views, and marvelously ornate church. My guidebook had a self guided tour, and I was able to comfortably see it withing my allotted time. I even climbed up a bit in order to get some great photos of the Abbey over the city. Melk seemed like a charming town, and if I came back I would consider staying a night.
Onward to Vienna, where I knew I needed to make up some time for my little side trip. On a side note, Vienna has no central train station, but instead many stations on the outside of the city. Needless to say, I think I have mastered the subways to get from place to place. Upon arrival, I jumped a subway downtown, and headed to the highly regarded Hofburg Imperial Apartments. These were the lavish and posh home to the Habsburgs over the centuries. The apartments are very impressive, but it was not one of my favorites. Much of the tour is focused on the Sisi story, which I find incredibly overblown. The Habsburgs ruled for many centuries--one of the longest consistent ruling groups in the world-- yet the tour focus is primarily on one crazy queen, Sisi.
From here I headed to the "finest collection of jewels on the continent", the Habsburgs' Hofburg Treasury. This was much more memorable than the apartments, with all kinds of over the top jewels, crowns, garments, and relics. This was pretty cool and refreshingly unique. At this point of my trip, I have seen a lot of palaces and jewels, but these jewels were certainly some of the top of the bunch.
From the Treasury, I bounced next door to the Kunsthistorisches Museum. This is home to one of the worlds finest collections of art and historical artifacts. I focused mainly on the art, with works by Raphel, Titian, Rembrandt, Bruegel and sons, Durer, Rubens, Bosch, Caravaggio, Vermeer, and more. It was certainly worthwhile and enjoyable. I have seen a lot of art of all kinds on my trip, andI really do find it fantastic. It is something we really don't get to see often back home in the states.
I think Vienna is magnificent. Like many of the cities in Germany, it is tremendously safe and clean, plus add in the world class architecture and sights. This is definitely one of my favorite European cities.
From the Kunsthistorisches Museum, I headed to the Vienna Staatsoper, where I picked up a standing room ticket. This easily has to be the best opera deal in the world, as for 4€ you get a magnificent standing position for a world renowned opera house. You stand directly under the emperors box, dead center with a full view of the stage. The catch is that you are standing crammed in with 200 of your new closest friends.
Here is my opera review from La Clemente di Tito...forewarning to skip it if you are not an opera person. The production was a modern mess from my perspective. Modern designer costumes with sets that looked like they could have been made by Haslett High School. Where as in Munich the production was highlighted by optical illusions, this was just tacky and trashy. The production also must have used half of the models in Vienna, as it was like a constant fashion catwalk. The staging was a constantly fidgeting mess, with non stop overdone movement. The redeeming element was in some of the singing. Starting was Elina Garnaca, who I heard as Carmen last year as well and is one of the top singers in the world right now. She stole and saved the show for me. Also strong (written without names because my playbill is in Vienna) was the other Mezzo and secondary soprano. The leading soprano and tenor didn't struggle, but they were definitely not up to par with the other voices. The orchestra was very together, with the only consistent issue being a clarinet and horn. There was some incredibly sensitive playing and singing, showing a very deep sense of Mozart and musicality. The audience definitely appreciated the singing, giving Garnaca in particular ovation after ovation, and a several minute curtain call.
For 4€, this was unbeatable. You just don't find that anywhere else in the world...as long as you can stand for 2.5 hours. After, I walked around Vienna a bit and found the famous Strauss statue before taking the subway to the apartment where I am staying.
That was one of the busiest days of the trip, but everything was AWESOME! It wasn't a cheap day, but it would be a shame for me to skimp on some of these things because of an entry fee. Once again, I am loving everyday of this trip, and I could just keep going if it wasn't for all of the loved ones back home.
Halfway to Budapest! I will write about today on my way home tonight.
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